Christopher Sheldrake on Iris… and the beginning of an attempt to make a synthetic iris accord

I saw this video over on Bois de Jasmin. I found it informative and a great delight to watch, as iris is one of my favourite notes. To quote Christopher Sheldrake:

“Unlike many fragrant products, the scent of the iris increases over time. It’s amazing! It wears off extremely slowly. It actually increases before disappearing.”

I learnt that the molecule responsible for this is irone. The sad news is that orris butter is extremely expensive! Thankfully, a good friend of mine (she recently started blogging at aromatisity), who’s had some experience working with perfumery materials, suggested the following synthetics as a substitute for orris butter:

Isoraldeine 70
Alpha irone
Alpha/Beta/Methyl ionone
Gamma nonalactone
Anisaldehyde
(other lactones)
(other woody notes)

As I’ve mentioned, I absolutely love the smell of orris, so I shall purchase these materials and experiment to make my own iris accord. When I’m satisfied with the results, I’ll post an update and probably do a giveaway draw for a sample, so do keep a lookout!

~ The Smelly Vagabond

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