Christopher Sheldrake on Iris… and the beginning of an attempt to make a synthetic iris accord

I saw this video over on Bois de Jasmin. I found it informative and a great delight to watch, as iris is one of my favourite notes. To quote Christopher Sheldrake:

“Unlike many fragrant products, the scent of the iris increases over time. It’s amazing! It wears off extremely slowly. It actually increases before disappearing.”

I learnt that the molecule responsible for this is irone. The sad news is that orris butter is extremely expensive! Thankfully, a good friend of mine (she recently started blogging at aromatisity), who’s had some experience working with perfumery materials, suggested the following synthetics as a substitute for orris butter:

Isoraldeine 70
Alpha irone
Alpha/Beta/Methyl ionone
Gamma nonalactone
(other lactones)
(other woody notes)

As I’ve mentioned, I absolutely love the smell of orris, so I shall purchase these materials and experiment to make my own iris accord. When I’m satisfied with the results, I’ll post an update and probably do a giveaway draw for a sample, so do keep a lookout!

~ The Smelly Vagabond


Sentifique – Testostérone + ‘Being a Man’

source: fragrantica

I had a triple shot of coffee this morning, and then I reached for my sample of Testostérone by Swiss brand Sentifique, because I figured the coffee combined with a perfume named after the masculinity-definining hormone would turn me into a true man, or turn on my ‘beast mode’, or enable me to ‘drop panties’ (I use these terms with sarcasm, and really don’t like it when people use the latter – ‘pantydropper’ is degrading to women and ‘beast mode’, well, should be reserved for animalic fragrances – think Serge Luten’s Musc Koublai Khan, which really turns you into a delightfully stinky furry animal).

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Culti Smell & Guess Evening + Some thoughts on home fragrances

Source: Bloom Perfumery Website

Source: Bloom Perfumery Website

I had the good fortune of attending a Culti Smell & Guess event at Bloom Perfumery on Thursday, 17 October 2013. I had attended the very first one a few months back and had rather fond memories of it, and as such was looking forward to attending this one. I’d asked along a friend, who shall remain anonymous, but lamentably she’d come down with a bad flu the day before and so her nose was, sad to say, not in the best condition for a sniffing competition. Quel dommage! Anyway, I was raring to outsniff the rest of the competition, and was on my way to Bloom when the ‘we are being held at a red light signal’ experience happened to me as I waited somewhat frustratedly on board the evening rush hour tube.

Sweatier than this sweaty man

And so it was that I had to run at breakneck speed from Liverpool Street station – I arrived at Bloom 10 minutes late, perspiring more profusely than a pipe in need of a plumber. I do wish I looked even half as good as that guy in the picture. No, I was a panting mess compared to the five ladies who’d had the good sense to make their way to Bloom earlier in the evening.

Thankfully, one of my tweets whining about being stuck on the tube had caught the attention of @BloomPerfumery, and they were kind enough to wait for me to begin. Thank goodness for twitter, I’m glad I started using it! But on to the contest!

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